Wednesday, April 22, 2020

Fast Fashion Leaders H&M And Zara; Weathering The Pandemic

Fast fashion, which is the mass production of fashion trend-right products at inexpensive prices, may have to deal with something it is not used to; excess inventory. Typically, the business model calls for many styles shipped frequently to stores, allowing for the trend-right merchandise to have a high sell-through, minimizing markdowns and improving profit margins. The industry inventory turnover for fast fashion is over 4.0 which is considered healthy for apparel stores.

However, with many stores closed for at least a few weeks, the inventory is not selling at the same pace and it is unlikely that e-commerce sales can make up the loss in revenue. Once the inventory has passed the prime time to sell, the goods are typically marked down. Two of the largest retailers in fast fashion, H&M and Inditex (Zara parent company), both have a majority of their stores closed due to the coronavirus pandemic. H&M, serving 74 global markets, has closed 3,441 stores out of 5,062 while keeping about 50 online digital markets open according to the latest press release. Zara reported 51percent of its 7489 stores temporarily closed and 156 online markets which continue to operate. Although online sales for Inditex grew 23 percent in 2019, the total online sales represent only 14 percent of total sales. H&M’s online sales increased by 24 percent for 2019 but represent a small portion of the total revenue.

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WSJ reported Zara’s app use and H&M’s app downloads both fell 14% in the U.S. markets. Groceries and staple items are top priorities for consumers today, so discretionary spending has been held back. Also weighing on consumers’ minds is the uncertainty of employment and a  possible recession which means fast fashion may take a back seat for the near future. The fast fashion industry has been suffering from declining profitability and will be further challenged with added markdowns and excess inventory in 2020.

Friday, March 20, 2020

As Coronavirus Lockdowns Hit Supply Chains, Luxury Fashion Is Not Immune

Luxury retailers have been hit by a double-whammy of falling demand from Chinese buyers, and lockdowns across major manufacturing regions in Italy that have now spread nationwide.

Suppliers of textiles and leather goods told Reuters that demand had been slashed from the likes of Gucci, Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo.
"We were producing 880 to 1,000 bags a month for Gucci. In February we made 450 and we have no orders for March," one owner of a supplier to the Kering-owned luxury brand told Reuters.
Italy has the largest cluster of Covid-19 cases outside China, and on Monday, a lockdown imposed on the worst hit regions and cities in the north, including financial and fashion capital Milan, was extended to the entire nation.
The tail-end of fashion month was hit by mounting concerns about the spread of the virus in Europe, with some editors leaving Paris fashion week early, while Giorgio Armani’s fashion show was displayed to an empty room and streamed online.
Like many other industries, the $320 billion luxury goods sector is wracked with uncertainty as to how long the effects of Covid-19 will last, with many retailers saying that they are monitoring the situation closely.
"The outbreak of COVID-19 has already negatively impacted the luxury industry," Fflur Roberts, head of Luxury at Euromonitor International, told Forbes. "Luxury companies such as Burberry, Tapestry and Capri, have already adjusted their sales forecasts for 2020 down."
Tangent: Italy is the 5th largest market globally for personal luxury goods, with leather goods dominating sales, Roberts said. Meanwhile, in 2018, Chinese shoppers accounted for one-third of luxury goods purchases, according to Bain & Company.

Crucial comment: Honor Strachan, retail analyst at GlobalData, told Forbes that while brands might be insulated in the immediate term, if the public health crisis continues, it could have adverse effects on stock levels as far as the Autumn and festive seasons.
                                                                       

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Sunday, December 29, 2019

The Beatrice Inn's Angie Mar Cooks Up A Fashion Collection


Chef Angie Mar is admittedly not a fashion designer, though she is no stranger to the scene. She pals around with designers like Oscar de la Renta's Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Peter Som, and Sally LaPointe; and has a closet stocked with Givenchy, Chanel, Gucci, and Balenciaga. But as of today, the owner and chef de cuisine of the Beatrice Inn—in a measured way—is strengthening her ties to the sartorial world by launching a line of apparel that captures her restaurant's evolution throughout the last century.   

Indeed, reinvention is the hallmark of longevity, and the Beatrice Inn has certainly gone through its fair share of life cycles. The storied hotspot located in New York's West Village began as a speakeasy in the 1920s; became an Italian eatery in the '50s, subsequently attracting the patronage of Woody Allen and academics like Victor Navasky; turned into a raucous night club for B-listers and wannabe fashion stars after it was bought by DJ Paul Sevingney and a few partners in 2006; and then became a watering hole for power brokers when Graydon Carter took over the deed in 2013. Now, under the dominion of Mar, who bought it from the Vanity Fair's erstwhile editor in 2016, the Beatrice Inn has transformed into a restaurant that concisely combines all its past lives—with a hefty helping of the Seattle native's own sensibilities.
                                                                                 Bridesmaid Dresses
All the glitz, glamour and hedonism that characterize the legend of the Beatrice Inn—along with Mar's personal appearance (orchestrated with the help of stylist Annebet Duvall)—are encapsulated in Butcher + Beast: Mastering the Art of Meat, a tome published in October 2019. From page to page, Mar, Jamie Feldmar, and photographer Johnny Miller illustrate scenes that are brawny, cool, and makes no qualms about being excessive, both in the portions of the meals and the setup of Polaroid images. Still, even with the display of these indulgences, there is something welcoming and inclusive in the restaurant's presentation. It is as if Mar is inviting all into a family party—albeit an incredibly decadent one.

This idea of family, evidently, was central to Mar's new fashion collection, which was made in collaboration Autum Studios, a company owned by her brother Conrad Mar. The line is comprised of sweaters, hoodies, and track pants that feature images from the book and catch phrases such as “Lady Bea,” “Saturday Night,” and “Free the Beatrice.” And with only 150 pieces made, the stock—which is priced from $78 to $198 and sold exclusively at Autumstudios.com—is just as rare as her Pinot Meunier–aged Wagyu Chateaubriand. 



Sunday, November 24, 2019

Nanushka's CEO Serves Up His Recipe For How To Create A Global Fashion Brand


Nanushka has seemingly cooked up a recipe for instant success. In three years, the Budapest-based sustainable fashion label, founded by Sandra Sandor, has garnered the fervor of fashion editors; is stocked at major retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue; increased its revenue by nearly 25 times; and recently opened a 3,300-square-foot store at the posh SoHo neighborhood in New York. But what may appear to be a 30-minute meal—a speedy trajectory to the top—was actually a slow roast.

The brand was founded in 2006, nearly a decade before it became a burgeoning force in the industry. So, what was the missing ingredient that added the necessary kick? Evidently, it was basic business acumen. Before 2016, Nanushka was effectively hemorrhaging money, operating on a scale that isn't conducive to running a successful global company.

Indeed, Nanushka wasn't lacking in its creative output. Throughout her career, Sandor has designed forward-thinking collections for men and women that imbue a timeless quality. From sharply tailored vegan leather coats to draped dresses in eye-catching hues, she consistently offers styles that are easy to wear, but also have clear elements of panache. It's no wonder why the brand in so beloved on Instagram. Still, this doesn't mean that it was turning a profit. 

On the surface, fashion is a creative industry based on pushing forward an ideal, often glamorous image. But scratch away the first coat, and it is essentially a business based on low margins, high spending, and competition in a marketplace that has become so overly saturated that even the best labels have closed up shop. Understanding these basic principles is Peter Baldaszti, a Hungarian entrepreneur who saw the potential in making Nanushka a global fashion brand.

He was dating Sandor three years prior to taking on the role of CEO and co-owner in 2016, the year that changed the course of the company. What he did to overhaul Nansushka and astoundingly increase revenue wasn't groundbreaking in the least. He simply had the foresight to see that it could really impact the global market. And after instituting a solid operating system—and with a little bit of luck—the brand is now a palatable enterprise. 

Ahead of Nansushka's New York store opening,  Baldaszti served up his recipe for making Nanushka relatively successful.

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Sunday, October 27, 2019

Why Stylists Are Natural Fashion Designers



I've written quite a bit about how influencer clothing lines are a natural next step for many of the world's top social media stars, but there's another type of fashion expert out there who makes a great designer: the stylist.

Not only are these individuals dressing and beautifying taste-making celebrities of the world, but they're also experiencing firsthand the products from countless top brands in the fashion and beauty world. Stylists know how clothes are supposed to fit and the adjustments they need to make to make a garment flawless. Makeup artists and hairstylists have sampled hundreds of formulas and ingredients in the products that they use on their clients in order to know which ones are the most effective. Stylists have vast resources and knowledge on what makes a product successful, so when they set out to create their own line, they know how to make it right.

But don't take it just from me! I spoke with three different style professionals—makeup artist Dillon Pena, stylist Cristina Ehrlich, and hairstylist Ricardo Roja—to get their take on the stylist brand trend.
                                                                     

                                               Vestidos de Cerimonia

Monday, August 5, 2019

Luxurious Wedding Registry Items You Absolutely Need

According to a study from The Knot, approximately nine in ten couples create a gift registry for their wedding. However, because the average age of marriage is older than ever, couples don't necessarily feel the need to register for traditional home decor and kitchen items. But, it doesn't mean they shouldn't. A wedding registry is one of the few times in your adult life when you can ask for things that you would never buy for yourself. However, your home, like your marriage, should be beautiful and harmonious. So, don't be afraid to upgrade.

Here are some high-end home items to add to your registry as well as suggestions of where to register.

Neiman Marcus 

There are many benefits to registering at Neiman Marcus. They have a curated selection of high-end items for every room. Furthermore, because the department store has brick and mortar locations, shopping is made easier for guests of a certain age, who may not want to purchase wedding gifts online.

Weddings and celebrations bring a seemingly endless amount of photo opps. So, be prepared and register for plenty of picture frames. The Aerin Valentina Velvet Frame has a romantic design, perfect for pictures of the happy couple.
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